A essayer! Lapin et ris de veau (Thanksgiving sans Turkey part deux)

Tourists are scarce in Quebec City this time of year, even in the Quartier Petit Champlain where hordes of them crowd the tiny alley with all the artsy shops. The snow and bitter cold wind probably had something to do with it, but that didn't matter to me. A more pressing concern was my growling stomach, and since it was just about lunch time, I started to peer closely at the restaurant menus displayed outside each dining establishment nearby.

Upon the advice of my guidebook, I checked out the offerings of Le Lapin Sauté first, but seeing that it was somewhat busy and having second thoughts about eating their specialties - rabbits (lapin in French)- although the maple and raspberry rabbit does sound terribly divine, I walked around the corner and almost as soon as I started perusing Bistro Sous le Fort's menu, a staff member came out to beckon me inside their restaurant. How could I resist?

rabbit meat egg rolls

My adventurous palate was hankering for something unique, so I mentally checked off the egg rolls de lapin (rabbit meat egg rolls). Perhaps I had a twinge of regret in missing out on the highly-rated Le Lapin Sauté, and considered this the next best thing. The words A essayer! ("Must try!") tipped the scales in favor of the egg rolls over a plateful of comparatively humdrum escargot. They proved to be quite tasty- a tad on the spicy side but the flavor was balanced by the honey and ginger sauce. Definitely an significant upgrade from your greasy Chinese takeout egg rolls.  

calf sweetbreads (ris de veau)

It proved much harder to choose a main course. Initially I debated between two of my favorite standbys, steak frites and duck confit, and those ginger and root beer spare ribs sound mouth-watering ("vraiment savoureuses (really tasty)!", exclaimed the menu).These superlatives notwithstanding, I found myself muttering "ris de veau (calf sweetbreads)" to Rafa, my engaging waiter who insisted on conducting our dialogue in French.

Mind you - the sole occasion I had tasted sweetbreads (pictured above) was at an Argentinian steakhouse in Queens, where those innards came as part of a mixed grill. I didn't even know what they were at the time, and when a subsequent Google search revealed exactly the assortment of animal parts I had just eaten, my amusement just increased. I found the taste of sweetbreads agreeable though, and they were soft and chewy, so who cares what they really were?

Now it was time for an encore - I enjoyed Bistro Sous le Fort's version of calf sweetbreads as well, devouring every last bit that even Sherlock Holmes would be hard-pressed to find traces of the crime. I did go easy on the potatoes though. (you know, carbs). Rafa offered some dessert or coffee, but I declined, content to sip my beer and ponder the tasty alternative Thanksgiving meal I just had.

In the Mood for Crepes (Thanksgiving sans Turkey) in Quebec City

Le Billig in Quebec City

I have to confess - I've never liked turkey, stuffed or otherwise, and can't really stand eating it. Not even once a year for a traditional Thanksgiving feast. Anyway, I've always taken the opportunity to travel somewhere on the long 4-day weekend. This year was no exception, and I found myself enduring the cold weather and snow in Quebec City. The entire city was covered in the white stuff, so basically it felt that I had fast forwarded to Christmas. 

 I was in the mood for something different. On the Quebec City Food Tour (here's a review) that I took, one of the stops was Le Billig, a small creperie-bistro located just outside the walls of Old Quebec in the St. Jean Baptiste neighborhood, away from the tourist hordes. According to our guide, the restaurant's name refers to the flat, circular grill that is used to make crepes, and that Le Billig serves authentic buckwheat flour crepes ("galettes") that are the specialty of Brittany, France. 

the Savoyarde

I decided to return to Le Billig for lunch the next day. Enormously hungry from the effort of walking in the snow, I followed the waiter's recommendation and ordered one of the house's specialties, the Savoyarde (onions, bacon, cheese, and potatoes) over a thin layer of crepe. That proved to be a good choice - a delicious, hearty meal washed down by une bolée of sparkling Kerisac apple cider, also from Brittany. (Another discovery: I prefer my apple cider chilled instead of warm. And alcohol content definitely helps).

La Salidou

Delighted at my discovery, my meal, and considering that my return flight was due to leave in a few hours, the decision to maximize my crepe consumption was a no brainer. This time I had to select from among the fifteen or so savory dessert crepes, but in the end I opted for "The Salidou", composed of salted butter, home-made caramel and Chantilly. It was tough picking a winner between that and "The Ecstacy", made of dark chocolate and dark chocolate ice cream, but what can I say, I'm a sucker for caramel. Another fortuitous choice to cap off my quick Thanksgiving escape from turkey in Quebec City.

I say Macaron, you say Macaroon

As I was preparing for my trip last year to Paris, a friend alerted me to the sumptuous macarons at the French pastry retailer Laduree, raving about the smooth, creamy fillings of said confections. For some nebulous reason, I absentmindedly thought she was referring to coconut macaroons, which are delicious and which I heartily consumed in the past, and thus although I wandered along the Champs Elysees I neglected to make a visit to Laduree's pastry shop. Six months after returning from Paris, by happenstance I read a blurb about the newly-opened Macaron Cafe serving those tiny delicacies did my mind wander back to that conversation, and I realized my colossal blunder and vowed to rectify this error.

Located in a somewhat nondescript part of Midtown, Macaron Cafe is pretty easy to miss unless you are looking for it, as I was. Once you step inside, however, the vibrant colors of the paintings and inviting couches entice you to stay, relax, have a nice cup of tea accompanied by whatelse? - the lovely macarons, of course - which come in sixteen different flavors. Enthralled at the choices, I stood in front of the glass counter, pondering which varieties to sample, debating inside my head, "I want this. No, I'll try that one instead", all the while conscious of the French female attendant's amused gaze upon me. Couldn't help wondering if she thought I'd say "Give me one of each (all sixteen)". Finally I selected the pistachio and tiramisu, and savored each tender, chewy bite. Sweet, yet not cloying. Why, oh why, are they so small???

If I hadn't been in a rush to get to an appointment, doubtless I would've stayed and noshed on more macarons (not good for someone trying to shed pounds), so I settled for buying a twelve-pack box as a present to my friend. So far it sits inside my refrigerator, untouched. Hopefully, midnight cravings won't hijack the macarons from their intended receipient. As for Laduree, I heard spring time is lovely in Paris...

The Wing or the Thigh...Yum!

I had passed by A.O.C. (L'Aile ou la Cuisse) a few times and had always wanted to eat there, more so recently given my increasing interest in la cuisine francaise. The restaurant resembled your classic neighborhood French bistro, the blue color maybe? Looking up the intriguing name in my French-English food dictionary yielded "The Wing or the Thigh", coincidentally my two favorite chicken parts. That settled it - I'm going in!

The front area of A.O.C. was fully occupied, and after a few minutes waiting at the bar and overhearing snippets of French conversation, our party was led into the spacious dining room at the back. The contrast was from the noisy, jampacked front area was a pleasant, if startling, surprise. There is also a seasonal outdoor garden ideal for peaceful summer dining. So, the place is huge! Couldn't have figured that one out just by casually walking past it on the street.

For starters, had the delectable escargots with garlic and parsley. Instantly reminded me of my trip to Paris, and I wish the order came with more than six escargots. Made up for it by mopping up the sauce with the bread, so much so that I became almost full from that alone. But wait! The main course is still coming - confit de canard or duck confit.

Doesn't that duck confit look mouth-watering? Well, trust me - I still remember the crunchy skin crackling as I chewed, and the moist, flavorful duck meat. It came garnished with frisee salad, cauliflower gratin, and sweet Grand Marnier sauce. Not really knowledgeable about wine pairings with duck (note to self: ask Kiki), but opted to treat myself to a glass of Rhone Valley syrah to finish off the superb lunch at A.O.C. in style.

For more information about A.O.C., check out their website.